From UK to Italy: Mishaps, Intercoms & Ingenuity
Alex
Eamonn
Mike
Simon
Marshall
Chris

The full route of the tour. Yellow indicates overnight stops, red is a stop for more than one night.


The annual Old Gits European road trip was officially underway. Ahead lay two weeks, thousands of miles, and the promise of sweeping alpine passes, winding country roads, and a few well-earned beers. The Dolomites were calling again—this time with a bigger crew.
Joining the original trio of Eamonn, Alex, and Mike were three new recruits: Simon, Chris, and Marshall. The plan was simple(ish): the original three would take a longer route, including a detour to visit an old work friend near Strasbourg, while the newcomers—on a tighter schedule—would head straight for the mountains. The two groups would rendezvous just before the Stelvio Pass and ride together from there.
Canazei was chosen as our Dolomite base, a familiar spot from last year’s tour. Pricey, yes—but worth it for the superb facilities and, crucially, the underground lockup garage for the bikes. We’d be staying there four nights, giving us time to explore the surrounding passes properly before beginning the journey home.
As always, the route was designed to avoid motorways and toll roads wherever possible. Dual carriageways might sneak in here and there, but motorways were reserved for emergencies: bad weather, tight schedules, or the occasional navigational surrender. Daily mileage was aimed at around 200, but more important was the riding time—four hours a day, give or take. It’s a rhythm we’ve found works best for the group: enough to feel the road, not so much that it becomes a slog.
The first order of business? A crucial upgrade. Alex and Eamonn's day began with a quick visit to Mike to drop off a new Sena comms system for their helmets, which we hoped would put an end to the usual pre-ride scramble. With the new gear secured, Alex and Eamonn settled in for the night in a Premier Inn in Ashford, waiting for Mike to join them in the morning.
🏍️ Departure from Blighty
Mike's journey kicked off bright and early from home in Gillingham, Kent. At around 6:00 AM on 9th July '25, he hit the road, riding toward Ashford to meet up with fellow adventurers, Alex and Eamonn for breakfast at the hotel, nothing fancy, but enough to fuel the day, although Mike had 2 flat white coffees as he'd been up since 5am, we synced up our intercoms and set off for the Folkestone terminal to catch Le Shuttle, the final hurdle before their continental adventure truly began.
The train ride itself was uneventful, save for one minor hiccup: the toilet door was temporarily jammed. Fortunately, no one was stuck inside, and a guard was on-hand to reset the lock mechanism, but it did mean we couldn’t use it for a while. Not ideal, but hardly a deal-breaker. we arrived in Calais at 12 noon approx.


We chewed through hundreds of miles in stages, stopping roughly every hour for fuel and refreshments. Speaking of fuel stops, one station insisted that we pay up front before they would enable the pump. This meant that we had to guess how much fuel we needed. Because we were on motorcycles with smaller tanks, there was less room for error. Mike was lucky and guessed almost exactly right, but Eamonn and Alex overestimated and actually had to leave some petrol in the pump!
While we hoped to soak up some local culture at independent coffee shops, they proved elusive. Since the Covid pandemic, many of these charming spots have sadly shut down, making them harder to find than ever. Instead, we found ourselves pulling into fast-food outlets like McDonald’s—not exactly picturesque, but reliably open. Mike was eating, as he didn't know when the next chance for a meal might come! One upside for him personally is that these major chains usually offer vegetarian or vegan options, which he really appreciates.
The weather was perfect, about 25°C, but a bit windy at times on the road. We even had to turn off the motorway for a bit after the main road closed for six weeks of repairs, forcing us onto a few country roads to go around the closure.
After more than five hours of riding and about 300 miles through France and Belgium, we finally rolled into Arlon and checked into our first hotel: an Ibis Styles. Compared to the bare-bones Ibis Budget, it felt like a well-earned upgrade—clean, comfortable, and a welcome sight after a long day on the road.
The evening was just what we'd hoped for. We kicked back with a couple of beers, then grabbed a good meal in the restaurant. With a few more drinks in us, we moved to the bar for some great conversation and a lot of laughs!
While we were enjoying the relaxed vibe, we noticed some activity outside—tables being arranged, decorations going up. It looked like a party was brewing. One of the organisers popped into the bar, and Alex, ever inquisitive, asked what was going on.
Apparently, a group of cyclists were arriving soon, part of a charity ride from Gothenburg to Paris. Before long, they began to trickle in—dozens of them, all dressed in matching yellow kit, parking their bikes and diving into food and drinks like they’d just conquered the Alps.
We joked about joining the party, though there’s always that strange, semi-friendly tension between cyclists and powered road users. It can get a bit spicy, but not with us—we’re more about the banter than the beef.
That’s when we remembered Simon, one of our fellow adventure riders we were due to meet in Switzerland. Simon has a well-known (and slightly irrational) dislike of cyclists. So naturally, we thought it’d be hilarious to send him a photo of us hanging out with a whole peloton of them.
Alex approached the friendly woman we’d met earlier in the bar and offered €20 for their charity in exchange for a photo. They were more than happy to oblige. We got the shot, sent it to Simon with the caption:
His reply came back almost instantly:
That little emoji said it all—equal parts betrayal and disbelief. We couldn’t stop laughing. It was the perfect wind-up, and honestly, worth every cent of that €20 donation.
The evening rolled on with more drinks and more jokes. Eamonn, being the sensible one, kept his intake modest. Alex and Mike, however, graduated to spirits. Mike spotted a bottle of Disaronno and ordered one on the rocks. Alex went for a whisky, and they both sipped away, enjoying the change of pace.
Of course, a single shot doesn’t last long, so they returned to the bar for round two. The barmaid, clearly in a generous mood, poured us another round with a heavy hand. Before long, Mike was feeling distinctly wobbly.
Just before closing time, she came over and asked if we wanted one last drink. Eamonn politely declined, but Alex and Mike were game. She brought over the nearly empty bottles of Disaronno and whisky and said,
And with that, she poured the remaining contents into our glasses. The result? Huge measures and a very merry end to the drinking.

But the night wasn’t quite over.
Mike is of slight build, and alcohol hits him quite hard. He knew we had another day of riding ahead, and the last thing he wanted was a stinking hangover. So, he went into survival mode: drink as much water as humanly possible. He might feel shattered the next day, but at least he wouldn’t be ill.
He was sharing a room with Alex—an excellent friend and, as it turns out, a true legend. He kept repeating, “Water… I need water… give me water…” and Alex was totally obliging. There was a water cooler in the relaxation area, so they filled bottles and glasses and headed back to the room.
He drank everything. And then he needed more.
This is when Alex revealed his heroic side. In nothing but his underwear, he brightly marched down the long corridor to the water cooler, refilled the bottle, and returned with a triumphant grin. What a hero. 😄
Mike got up a few times in the night for a wee, but thankfully, as expected, he woke up without a hangover. He was utterly exhausted from lack of sleep—but not ill. Mission accomplished.
Yesterday's journey from Calais to Arlon was hard work. Although it was mostly motorway, the buffeting from the wind and the continual noise through the helmet made it quite a physical day.
Today, however, we’re switching gears—smaller country roads leading us to a charming town near Strasbourg called La Wantzenau. There, we’ll meet Amanda and her husband for an evening meal. Amanda, Alex, Mike and Eamonn all worked together at NEC some 30 years ago before life took us in different directions—and now, we meet again!
We’ve left Belgium, cruised through (very clean) Luxembourg, and are now back in France. So far, we’ve successfully avoided McDonalds… victory!
A failed lunch stop—seems we were too late to grab a sandwich! We may try another place soon… preferably not a McD... 😁 . However, this was not to be, McDonald's it was!
About an hour after lunch, we entered the town of Berstett on the outskirts of Strasbourg. It was here that we had a close call—and a sharp reminder of one of France’s more obscure driving rules: priorité à droite.
For UK riders, this rule can catch you off guard. In short, unless otherwise indicated by road markings or signage, vehicles approaching from the right—even from side roads—have priority. It’s a uniquely French quirk, and one that doesn’t sit naturally with our instincts.
Eamonn was leading, with Mike close behind. As they approached a junction, a car on the right began edging forward. It paused as Eamonn passed, but just as Mike came through, the driver suddenly lurched forward—almost into the side of Mike’s bike.
The horn blared. Mike swerved. Alex, watching from behind, saw the whole thing unfold. Over the intercoms, we quickly debriefed what had just happened and came to the conclusion: priorité à droite had struck again.
It was a close one. No contact, thankfully, but a sharp reminder that riding in France requires a different kind of vigilance. We carried on, a little more cautious, a little more alert—and very grateful that the only thing dented was our nerves.
We’ve arrived at the hotel. Two rooms allocated, both with double beds! After a little negotiation, Alex and Mike have been upgraded (free of charge) to a room with a double and a single. So all works out OK. Eamonn always has a single room, because things get LOUD! 🫨
Breakfasts were offered at €23 per person… that’s a bit steep. We may end up at McD for breakfast after all! 🤣🤣🤣
Amanda met us at our hotel with her husband and said she's booked a table at a restaurant that specialised in a local dish called "tartes flambées". She said it's just a short walk, so we walked for about a mile! (is that a short walk?). Anyway, a good meal was had by all and when it came to paying Amanda insisted that she would pay the bill! We could not persuade her out of it! Thanks Amanda ❤️
We walked back to Amanda's house and enjoyed a nightcap before leaving her slightly tipsy, and then we made our way back to our hotel.
Today started with an invite from Amanda to have breakfast at her house, so we packed and left the hotel by 9 and parked up at Amanda's by 9:05 😄
Amanda was a superb host, had an excellent breakfast and a chance to clean the bikes of all the accumulated bugs!
Leaving Amanda's, we headed south to our next hotel near Bern in Switzerland. Riding alongside the Rhine, the combination of a river and avenue of trees meant the ride was cool although a bit straight in places.

We've stopped for lunch and a comfort break and its not a McDonalds...!!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
It's a Burger King...... 👍😂
After a quick bite to eat, we hit the country roads again, eventually finding a lovely tea room in Courrendin for an afternoon break.

Looking at the map, the next leg of our journey promised to be a thrilling ride with plenty of twists and turns. But our excitement was short-lived. We discovered the road was closed, a fact that Google Maps had completely failed to mention! With no other option, we had to turn back and find an alternative route.
What a route it turned out to be! The new path led us up a section of hills with a grueling 25% gradient, switchbacks that were even tighter than the famous Stelvio Pass, and a single-track road. It was a true test of our riding skills. We only encountered a handful of cars, but each time we had to carefully navigate past them, always mindful of the width of our panniers. Thank goodness we were on our "adventure" bikes!

We finally reached our hotel in Schupfen called Hotel Restaurant Bahnhof, where we had to let ourselves in as we'd received a message that the restaurant was closed and there was no staff at reception. The key was in a special hiding place at the back of the hotel. Once we'd let ourselves in with that key, we used it again to unlock our room keys from a small box that was on the wall by reception. It was a little odd, but it worked out perfectly.
After getting settled, we're now at a nearby restaurant, ready to enjoy a well-deserved evening meal.
Mike had bought a new flip-front helmet with a Senna intercom for the trip, but he was finding that a painful pressure was building up on his ears. With the help of a knife and other tools, he started cutting away at the internal polystyrene padding to give himself some relief. He'll test it out tomorrow, and only time will tell if his adjustments made a difference.
Well, that was the worst night's sleep so far. The pillow was single, lumpy, and huge, offering absolutely no support. There was no air conditioning and no fan, but luckily it wasn't too hot. Good thing it's only for one night!
The breakfast at the hotel was good, a standard continental style. 👍
Initial concerns that Alex had lost his bike and insurance documents had us searching through the panniers and bags. Then he remembered seeing something that looked like part of the Hotel paperwork on the dressing table. Quick trip back to the room, and they were still in the room!! Now found and we were back on track.

No mountain roads today, mostly following in the valleys with a lunch stop planned for Montreux where we'll be singing Deep Purple songs!!! So we took a lunch stop in Montreux with mountain view at a camping site on the shores of Lake Geneva.


Above: The trusty steeds parked in the hot sun.
Now, the thing with long motorcycle tours, especially in hot conditions, certain items of gear get sweaty and start to smell before too long. But Mike had a plan—buy some fabric freshener that can be sprayed inside boots, gloves, jackets, jeans, etc. After failing to find anything in one supermarket, we then pulled into an ALDI and Mike was able to buy some disinfectant spray. Not quite what he was looking for, but it should do the job.
Our final destination for the day was a hotel halfway up a mountainside. The ride was mostly flat and easy until the last 5 kilometers, which were a real treat with some steep hills and tight switchbacks. It was a challenging but fun way to end the day. Here's a view from the front of the hotel Auberge Petit Paradis.

Now, it's time for some well-deserved beers!

We've arrived at our hotel, staying for 2 nights....in Switzerland.....so it's gonna be expensive 😬, oh and cheese, cheese, cheese, 😬 , also we don't have the right mains adapters for the main socket , so have to plug into the one by the light switch! So that's yet another adapter to buy for next time.
Today, 13th july, was all about local exploration and revisiting a favorite spot. Years ago, we stopped at a restaurant, Relais des Chasseurs (Chiboz), at the top of a twisty mountain road and promised ourselves we'd return one day. That day was today!

First, though, we had some technical difficulties to sort out. While riding through Montreux, our intercoms picked up conversations from other bikers. They were speaking a different language, so we could only offer a friendly "bonjour." To prevent this in the future, we knew we could set up a private group on our Sena headsets. After breakfast, we sat on the veranda, still wearing our helmets, making the adjustments. Anyone who saw us must have thought we were a strange sight!

The climb up the mountain was even more challenging than we remembered. The turns were incredibly tight, and at times the gradient reached a daunting 25%. It honestly made the Stelvio Pass look like a super-highway! Luckily, we only encountered a few cars coming the other way, which made the ride much easier.

Though thunderstorms were in the forecast, we've been fortunate to avoid them so far. Maybe later! For now, it was time for lunch.

Lunch was excellent! Eamonn and Alex had large, rare steaks served on a sizzling hot slate slab. The quality of the meat was outstanding. Mike, being the vegetarian of the group, enjoyed a very tasty salad.
Afterward, the ride back down the mountain was just as tricky, with more cars to negotiate. For a good portion of the descent, we rolled down the hill with the clutch pulled in—just for the fun of it!
Next, we headed to the Barrage de la Grande Dixence, a huge dam.

We stopped for ice cream and coffee. When it came time to pay, the man in his tent-like cafe insisted on cash only, and being in Switzerland, he wanted Swiss Francs. We struggled to scrape enough together and were a single franc short. Mike offered a euro, which he accepted but immediately replaced with a Swiss franc he took from his tips jar.


A small rain shower rolled in and delayed our departure, giving us an excuse for another coffee!, but this time in the hotel at the bottom of the cable car run.
Back at the hotel, the manager let us park our bikes in the underground garage because of the forecasted thunderstorms. He was a great host!
After a big steak at lunch, we're keeping it light for dinner. We walked five minutes from the hotel to a Japanese restaurant, which is apparently owned by the hotel. It was a beautiful evening, so we sat outside and this is the view from our table.

Weird bedding again. One giant soft pillow with no support and a heavy too hot duvet. Have got a couple of cushions, but they're not really good for anything.
There seems to be a running theme of finding the most expensive evening meal on this trip. We'd already seen a bill of €250 on Day 4 in Schupfen, then the steak meal at the top of the mountain was about €240. But with this latest restaurant, we've officially broken the record with a bill of nearly €260!
We woke up on 14th July to the sound of rain, but luckily, it stopped just as the sun began to peek through the clouds. Today's journey was a bit of a marathon, just over four hours of riding, and it promised to be a thrilling one as we planned to take on two major mountain passes: the Grimsel and Susten. Our final destination was Disentis, where we were scheduled to meet up with three of our friends for a meal and some well-deserved drinks.

We managed to outrun the rain and made a quick stop at a McDonald's (yes, again!) for coffee. For lunch, we were determined to find a proper Italian meal. A quick search on Google Maps led us to a fantastic pizza house about a mile back down the road. This beautiful restaurant, situated on the banks of the Rhône River, was clearly a local favorite. We were lucky enough to get a table on the veranda. Just a few kilometers from the start of the Grimsel Pass, it was the perfect place to refuel and layer up before the cold summit!

After an epic ride over the Grimsel Pass, the Susten Pass, Gotthard Pass and Oberalp Pass near Andermatt, we were in desperate need of a comfort break. We thought we had found the perfect spot in Andermatt—a restaurant at the base of a cable car. It didn't look busy, so we figured we'd give it a shot.
We rode up a small, twisty road to get there, but it wasn't clear if the restaurant was even open. After riding back and forth a few times, a man came out and confirmed our suspicions: the restaurant was closed. We had no choice but to move on.
Susten pass had some great swoopy curves.
Deciding to just power through without a break, we finally arrived at the Hotel Alpsu in Disentis. The bikes are parked off the road in a garage with no door, but it's out of sight. We had weird plug sockets in the rooms again, and Eamonn struck lucky and was given the honeymoon suite with a corner bath!
Our three friends—Simon, Chris, and Marshall—had booked into a different hotel up the road. We quickly showered and headed outside to wait for them, but they had decided to eat before coming down to meet us, and we had no intention of walking up the hill to meet them. So, we ordered some beers. Meanwhile, Alex had spotted that the beer mats were giant jigsaw pieces and proceeded to connect them together! The waitress noticed and then brought out about another 20 so that he could make a huge beer mat!

This area is clearly a biker magnet; we saw tons of them riding up and down the road and soon, a group of people at the table next to us struck up a conversation. It turned out they were also on a motorcycle holiday from Holland! We swapped stories and enjoyed some friendly biker banter.
With the restaurant getting busy, we decided to book a table for dinner even though our friends hadn't shown up. Just as we were partway through our meal, they sauntered in and announced themselves. We exchanged happy greetings, and they managed to grab a table outside. The rest of the evening was spent planning the next days route, enjoying a delicious meal and, of course, a few more beers and laughs outside.
After a great night of drinks with our friends Chris, Marshall, and Simon, we had a new route planned for our next stop at the Hotel San Carlo in Valdidentro. But as with any good adventure, the plans immediately changed! Our original route had us riding directly to the hotel, but last night Google Maps suggested a detour over the famous Stelvio Pass. Then, this morning, it switched back to the original plan. Below is the longer route.

Chris decided to leave early to explore more mountain passes on his own, and we all arranged to meet at a café about an hour into our ride. That would be the time to officially decide on a route.
Our quick coffee stop turned into a coffee and cheesecake stop, which was an excellent detour! We ran into a small issue with payment, as their card machine wasn't working and between all of us, we didn't have enough cash. Alex jokingly offered to wash dishes, but thankfully, the restaurant eventually found a way to process our cards.

We split into two groups. Alex and Simon took the more direct, 2.5-hour route. Chris, Eamonn, Marshall, and Mike took a longer, 3-hour route that included two mountain passes Marshall had been looking forward to riding. Both routes turned out to be great, and we all ended up arriving at the hotel within minutes of each other. Alex and Simon were delayed by some unexpected roadwork, but we all made it safe and sound. Time for a beer!
We soon discovered the hotel was "upside down," with our rooms located three or four floors below reception and the breakfast room all the way at the bottom. It was certainly a unique layout for a hotel, but after a long day of riding, we were just happy to be there.
Our hotel had a restaurant and a pizza place on the same level as the reception. Unfortunately, it was a "pizza or nothing" kind of night—not even a side salad was an option! While some of us enjoyed our pizzas, Marshall and Alex were not so lucky. Marshall's mushroom pizza was, in his own words, "f***ing horrible," and Alex had much the same experience. Being polite Brits, we didn't complain and suffered through it.
View from hotel room.

Don't know what it is about the Swiss and their bedding, but it just seems to be huge pillows filled with next to nothing and then heavy duvets, which makes for a very uncomfortable sleep. Now that we're in Italy, things align more with what we're used to in the UK.
Stelvio Day had finally arrived—a date circled in every biker’s calendar and whispered about in hushed tones over pints. But first, breakfast. The hotel’s breakfast room was tucked away at the very bottom of the building, and the buffet was generous: breads, cheeses, fruit, eggs, and enough coffee to fuel a small army. Everyone was tucking in when Mike, never one to shy away from sharing, casually announced that he’d thrown up in his mouth at 3 a.m. The timing of this revelation—mid-chew—was impeccable. Appetite levels dipped briefly, then recovered.
Before hitting the road, Chris and Marshall teamed up for a quick chain lubrication session on Chris’s bike. It was a well-rehearsed routine by now— a few squirts of lube, and a nod of satisfaction.

The Stelvio Pass is legendary for good reason. At 2,757 metres, it’s the second-highest paved pass in the Alps, just seven metres shy of the top spot. But it’s not the altitude that makes it famous—it’s the 48 hairpin bends that snake up the mountainside like a rollercoaster designed by a madman.
We joined the parade of bikers winding their way to the summit, the air growing thinner and colder with each turn. At the top, we parked up for coffee. The breeze was sharp, and patches of snow clung to the edges of the road. The view? Absolutely worth every twist.



The ride down the other side was just as thrilling. The temperature climbed rapidly as we descended, and with hardly any traffic, we had the road almost entirely to ourselves. It was one of those rare moments where everything aligned—weather, road, rhythm.
Lunch was at the grand Hotel Maria Theresia in Schlanders. The building was impressive, the menu classic: omelettes, schnitzel, cutlets. Just what we needed after the morning’s adrenaline.

After lunch, our group split up. Alex and Simon decided to head straight for the hotel, while the rest of us chose a "twisty" country route. And boy, was it ever!
The ride was even better than the Stelvio itself. The roads were virtually empty, and the twists and turns were non-stop. Eamonn was so stoked that his boot touched the ground on a few corners, but Chris, riding behind him, was a little nervous about the panniers. Glad we all made it safe and sound!
We ran into some exceptionally heavy traffic through a couple of the large towns, and in the heat, it was uncomfortable riding. On the way, someone had spotted a Biker Bar in the town of Bolzano, so we decided to pay it a visit. It was right next to a Harley Davidson dealership, which was a little unfortunate for Alex as he couldn't do any retail therapy there.

Now we're all checked into Hotel Conturina in Canazei for the next four days. Time to kick back, grab a few beers, and find some dinner.
The first morning at the Conturina Hotel began with a classic Old Gits breakfast shuffle. Eamonn, Mike, and Alex grabbed a table for three; Simon and Chris (aka Cookie) settled at another; and Marshall—who’d made his own reservation—was directed to a solo table tucked away at the back. The hotel, assuming he was a lone traveller, had grouped us by booking rather than by banter.
One of the waitresses, sporting a rather dramatic pout courtesy of some enthusiastic lip filler, was quickly (and unkindly) nicknamed “Duckface” by one of the group—not to her face, of course. As she guided Marshall to his isolated seat, Chris couldn’t resist bursting into song: “All by myself…”
Duckface, caught between embarrassment and amusement, cracked up. She promised to sort a table for six the next morning, and just like that, the breakfast seating plan was upgraded.
For Eamonn, Mike, Chris, and Marshall, the riding began with a tour of some of the local mountain passes. The weather was beautiful, the scenery was spectacular, but the roads were a little too busy for our liking. Below, D is the start and finish point of Hotel Conturina.

While the rest of the group geared up for another full day of mountain passes, Simon and Alex opted for a different kind of adventure. For them, these trips are holidays by bike—not necessarily motorcycle holidays. That means rest days, slower mornings, and the occasional detour that doesn’t involve hairpins or altitude.
Simon was on a mission: to find a present for his better half. So the two of them set off on foot into town, browsing a few shops before stopping for coffee. Simon, it must be said, seemed more interested in the knives than the gift section—but eventually, he made a choice and the mission was declared a success.
With the shopping done, they wandered over to the cable car station to see where it led. One glance at the route and they were sold: two cable cars, one mountain summit, and plenty of scenery. The first car was quiet—just six people—so they had space to admire the views as they climbed. At the midway station, they hopped straight into the queue for the second leg. That’s when things got interesting. As they waited, a couple of cyclists pushed past with their bikes. “There is a queue,” Alex said, loud enough to be heard. But it didn’t stop there. Another twenty cyclists followed, wheeling their bikes past everyone else with the kind of entitlement that only Lycra and carbon fibre can produce. The language from Alex was not repeatable. Simon, wisely, kept quiet and found the whole thing rather amusing. When the cable car arrived, the bikes were loaded first, followed by the cyclists, and finally the rest of the passengers. There were mutterings—“If you can’t ride up, you shouldn’t be riding down”—but eventually everyone squeezed in.
At the top, the views were spectacular. Crisp air, panoramic vistas, and—unexpectedly—a building that looked like it was the one being renovated by the owners of their hotel. Maybe one day they’ll stay there too.
After admiring the views they descended to the first stop and found a hotel with an outdoor restaurant. As luck would have it, there was a barbecue on the veranda. They grabbed a table, ordered food, and enjoyed one of the best meals of the trip. Smoky, fresh, and served with a view—well worth the cable car chaos.
After lunch, they walked back to the hotel, ready for drinks and to wait for the others to return from their day of twisties and tarmac.

Eamonn, Mike, Chris and Marshall stopped for coffee at the Kolfuschgerhof Mountain Resort, a truly stunning hotel. It was a great place, but at a staggering £620 per night, it was a good thing we were only there for coffee!

Kolfuschgerhof Mountain Resort&Spa in Dolomites Colfosco - Corvara - Alta Badia
After coffee, we continued on, stopping at a restaurant called Rifugio for a light lunch of pasta, frankfurters, and fries.

Refueled, we headed back out. Chris decided to explore a few more passes on his own, while the rest of us took a more direct, shorter route back to the hotel. Fortunately, the traffic had thinned out in the afternoon, making the ride much more enjoyable than the morning.
We're now back at the hotel, sitting in the warm sunshine with a glass of beer, just relaxing. The plan for this evening is to visit a local pizzeria for a meal.
18th july. Our day started with a scenic tour of some passes, including Sella and Gardena, as we made our way toward Pordoi Pass. Our goal was to take the cable car to Terrazza delle Dolomiti for lunch with a view. The journey was filled with beautiful scenery and perfect weather, though the roads were a bit crowded with cars and motorhomes.

Upon arriving at Pordoi, we bought our tickets and rode the cable car to the very top. The views were simply superb, a complete contrast to last year when the peak was shrouded in thick fog. Mike and Simon went for a walk across the mountaintop to take in the clean, fresh air and snap some photos. We were enjoying the stroll when our day took an unexpected and serious turn.


As Alex and Eamonn were finding a table in the restaurant, a medical emergency unfolded right outside. Simon saw a man who appeared to be choking. He was given the Heimlich maneuver by someone in his group and then CPR after he was laid on the ground. Staff quickly called for help, and a medical helicopter soon landed next to the restaurant. Paramedics worked on the patient before the helicopter took off for a hospital. Ever the tech-geek, Eamonn pulled out his flight app and tracked the helicopter's journey to the Ospedale di Cavalese, confirming it had a helipad.
While he was receiving medical attention, men being men, a few inappropriate jokes were shared. I'm sure the readers of this can remember them. 😬
After things calmed down, we were served our food, and the restaurant returned to normal. We then headed back down the mountain for the short ride to the hotel.
Back at the bikes, Mike opened his top box to get his gloves, but unnoticed, there was oil swilling around at the bottom. It turns out a bottle of chain oil, which was wrapped in two bags, had somehow leaked, probably due to the temperature changes. Half a litre of oil had seeped out! Fortunately, the only things in the top box were non-perishables and tools. We were able to wipe the tools clean and use paper towels and rags to mop up the oil before throwing them away.
Just as we were finishing up, a message came through from Chris: “Might be a while.” Attached was a photo of his bike… and two police officers.

Turns out he’d been caught speeding. The motorcycle officer had given chase after Chris didn’t immediately stop. Once pulled over, his paperwork was checked, and he was issued a fine—which he paid on the spot with a credit card. Efficient, if a little embarrassing.
We arrived back at the hotel around 5 p.m. and began planning the evening. Our top choice was a craft beer festival being held in Canazei. After a quick search, we discovered there would be food at the festival, so we decided to eat there.
The festival was similar to those in the UK, with long queues for food and lots of interesting beers to try. Entry was free, but you had to buy a commemorative glass for €3 and then tokens for €1 each. A small beer was 3 tokens, a larger one was 5, a beef burger was 12 tokens, and a portion of chips was 4.


Alex and Simon left after one beer, opting to find a "proper" restaurant nearby. Whilst on their search they happened upon a marching band in traditional dress!

The rest of us, after a beer or two, queued up for food and had another beer! The evening entertainment was a four-piece group led by singer/songwriter Luca Annoni. After a couple of weak numbers, their performance improved.

Unfortunately, we had to leave early to get a head start on our last full day in the area.
Today was our last full day in the Dolomites, and with a forecast for rain later in the afternoon, we planned a short route to ensure we were back at the hotel by lunchtime. Chris prepared a route to the west of the hotel that would loop around some mountain roads and get us back in plenty of time.

Once again, Simon and Alex opted for a rest day rather than heading off into the twisties. For them, it’s a holiday by bike—not a motorcycle holiday—and with the weather playing ball, they made the most of it. The morning was spent enjoying the peace and sunshine at the hotel, before deciding to wander into town.
As Simon and Alex strolled through town, they spotted another emergency helicopter overhead. That made two so far on this trip—and as everyone knows, they tend to come in threes. A little worrying, but hopefully just coincidence.
Simon was on the receiving end of some gentle persuasion from Alex to spend a bit more money—perhaps another gift for Anne? But Simon held firm. No impulse purchases today. They settled on a pizza lunch instead, found a quiet spot, and enjoyed a slow meal before heading back to the hotel for a drink or two in the sun.
Chris left early to get fuel, while Eamonn, Marshall, and Mike left the hotel and headed through town to start the loop. Within a few minutes, Eamonn, Marshall, and Mike found themselves in a long traffic jam. After filtering through the traffic to the front, they found the problem was a bus stopped on a corner with its hazard lights on as if it had broken down. They managed to get around the bus to find clear roads for a while.
On passing a petrol station, they saw Chris filling up but carried on the route, thinking he would soon catch up. He never did, though!
The route took them through the Nigra Pass as well as some other twisty roads. After an hour and a half, they stopped for lunch in Ortise Sankt Ulrich at Cascade Ristorante Pizzeria. By this time, Eamonn and Mike had also lost Marshall. Marshall was, how can we put it, not a fast rider, so any pace above slow and he'll drop off the back of the group!
The weather forecast had changed, and the rain was now expected at 7 p.m., so we looked at extending our ride. Unfortunately, there wasn't a great number of options, so we elected to return using the same route with a minor extension on a higher mountain road slightly north of the route out. That extension turned out to be a small road with breathtaking views over the nearby valleys and mountains. Whoever lives on the side of that valley can wake up to that every day! Wow!

With less traffic on the road and sunny conditions, the ride back was excellent. No roadworks, no traffic jams, just perfect. Later in the afternoon, Eamonn, Mike, and Marshall returned—beating Cookie back, and joined the others for a well-earned wind-down. The group was back together, the sun was still shining, and the day had delivered just the right mix of rest and adventure.
Back at the hotel, all joined up again for relaxation and a few drinks (of course).
Today marked our final morning in the Dolomites. After several days of twisty roads, alpine views, and shared laughter, it was time to pack up and begin the journey north into Germany. The mood was a mix of quiet excitement and reluctant farewell—everyone knew the trip was winding down, but no one was quite ready to admit it.

We left the hotel as early as we could reasonably manage, which, given the previous night’s craft beer festival and the general pace of motorcycle mornings, was somewhere between “prompt” and “eventually.”
Marshall was ready to set off before the rest of us emerged. He was aiming for longer riding days to make it back to the UK by Monday evening. We made sure he was loaded up properly and waved him off with the usual mix of encouragement and envy—he had a long road ahead, but also the satisfaction of a clear plan.
Eamonn, ever the route planner, had estimated today’s ride at six and a half hours. This was met with raised eyebrows and a few sarcastic comments. After some recalculations and a bit of creative rerouting—mixing motorways with scenic country roads—we managed to shave it down to five and a half hours.

Still, that was a bit much for Alex and Simon, who opted for the faster route via toll roads and motorways. Their ETA: four and a half hours. The rest of us—Eamonn, Chris, and Mike—chose the longer, more scenic option. We’d all ride together until the Austrian border, then split and reconvene at the hotel in Bad Gronenbach.
We stopped for lunch at Bar Pizzeria Restaurant Terminus, right on the Italian/Austrian border. It was a fitting place for a final meal in Italy—simple, hearty, and full of character. After lunch, we said our temporary goodbyes and headed off in our separate directions.
The country route took us through the Austrian countryside, skirting the edges of Innsbruck and winding into Germany. The roads were smooth, the scenery lush, and the pace relaxed. We stopped for refreshments at the Ratscafe in Garmisch-Partenkirchen—a well-known biker hangout, more BMW than Harley, but welcoming all the same.
Only an hour and forty-five minutes to go.
We rolled into Bad Gronenbach in the late afternoon, greeted by 28°C heat and heavy humidity. Thunderstorms were forecast for the evening, and the air felt thick with it. Alex and Simon had arrived about 45 minutes before us, looking smug and well-rested. The group was back together again.
As we settled in, we discovered the entire town had gathered in the main square for a performance by the local school orchestra. It was one of those lovely, communal scenes—families chatting, children darting between benches, and the orchestra playing with heart.

But the weather was turning. The hotel restaurant was closed—it was Sunday, after all—but we had a table booked nearby for 7:45. While we waited, someone had the practical thought that the restaurant might be cash-only. In Germany, this isn’t uncommon, so Alex, Eamonn, Simon, and Mike set off in search of a cash point.
Naturally, it began to rain.

Fortunately, it wasn’t heavy, but the wind picked up, and with it came a new concern. In the centre of the square stood a very tall pole—decorated with shields all the way up and topped with what could only be described as a Christmas tree. We’d seen similar structures throughout the trip, but this one was different: it was creaking. Loudly.

Locals began glancing upward with increasing frequency. The wind kept knocking over a barrier that had been set up to keep traffic away from the orchestra, and now the pole was swaying just enough to make people shift uneasily. It didn’t fall, of course—but for a few minutes, it felt like the square was holding its breath.
Cash was secured, food was ordered, and drinks were poured. The meal was good, the conversation even better. We lingered long after the plates were cleared, the last to leave the restaurant.
There was a quiet shift in the mood. The trip was nearing its end, and it was beginning to sink in. The laughter was still there, but now tinged with a sense of nostalgia. We’d covered miles, shared stories, and built memories—and none of us were quite ready to let it go.
Our morning began with a familiar sound: rain. Not the gentle kind that makes you feel poetic, but the steady, grey drizzle that makes packing up motorcycles feel like a chore. Chris had already left early, determined to make progress on his journey home. The rest of us—Eamonn, Mike, Alex, and Simon—lingered at the hotel, watching weather apps like hawks, trying to time our departure to avoid the worst of it.
The rain wasn’t heavy, just persistent. Rideable, but not pleasant. To pass the time, we took a walk around the village—no umbrellas, just zipped jackets and a bit of optimism. It was quiet, damp, and oddly peaceful.

About ten minutes into the walk, Eamonn’s phone rang. It was the hotel. Chris had had an accident—he’d come off his bike in the rain. Thankfully, he was okay. Just bruises. But the bike? A write-off.
We rushed back, packed the last of our gear, threw on waterproofs, and headed out to the scene. Emergency services had already arrived. The ambulance crew had checked Chris over, and the police were still on site, making sure everything was in order.

His bike was in a ditch. Definitely unrideable. Between us, we managed to drag it out—muddy, battered, and clearly done for the trip. Chris was searching for his phone, which had been mounted on the headstock. It had come loose in the crash and vanished into the undergrowth. To make matters worse, it was on silent—so calling it was no help.

Fortunately, Chris had shared his phone’s location with Simon. Using that, we narrowed the search to within a couple of metres. For the next twenty minutes, we combed the ditch, lifting branches, peering under leaves, and poking through puddles. Then, triumphantly, one of the police officers shouted, “It’s here!”
Chris asked if the officer could speak to the farmer across the road to see if the bike could be stored there until it could be collected. The farmer agreed, and the bike was wheeled across and tucked away safely.
With the skies beginning to clear, we peeled off our waterproofs, redistributed Chris’s luggage across Alex and Simon’s bikes, and Chris climbed on behind Eamonn as pillion. We were behind schedule, so we opted for motorways to claw back some time.
The afternoon ride was, in a word, wild. Despite earlier promises of sunshine, the sky darkened fast. Very dark clouds rolled in, and then—torrential rain. We were on a motorway with nowhere to stop. Lightning flashed. A speed camera flashed. Visibility dropped. The road markings blurred. And the wind?
The wind was something else.
It felt like riding through the edge of a tornado—gusts slamming into the bikes, rain hammering down, and the whole world reduced to a blur of grey and grit. We gritted our teeth and pushed through, heads down, visors fogging, hoping it would pass.
And it did. Just as suddenly as it arrived, the storm cleared. Bright sunshine returned, and our soaked gear began to dry. Spirits lifted. We stopped for coffee at a McDonald’s—because of course we did.
Chris had decided to fly home from Stuttgart, which was conveniently on our route. We pulled into another McDonald’s—this one directly across from the airport. He changed out of his gear, grabbed his essentials, and headed off. A hug, a wave, and he was gone.

But the weather wasn’t done with us yet. Ahead, more black clouds loomed. We pulled into the first rest area we could find and suited up again. Just in time. Another thunderstorm rolled through, soaking everything in its path. Then, as before, it cleared to hot sunshine.
We arrived in Strasbourg to dry roads and slow traffic. Traffic lights at every junction made the final stretch feel longer than it was. At the hotel, we discovered the restaurant was only serving pizzas—not quite the celebratory meal we had in mind.
Simon stayed at the hotel and Eamonn, Alex and Mike ventured out and found a nearby French bistro. A proper meal, good wine, and a chance to reflect on a day that had thrown everything at us—rain, rescue, rerouting, and reunion.

At precisely 5:30 a.m., the peace of our Strasbourg hotel was shattered by the unmistakable wail of a fire alarm. No gentle wake-up call, no warning—just full-volume chaos. We scrambled out of bed, grabbed the essentials (phone, credit card, dignity), and followed the fire exit signs to the front of the hotel.
Outside, bleary-eyed guests stood in pyjamas and flip-flops, blinking at the early light. After five minutes, the alarm stopped. No emergency services arrived. No explanation was given. So, back inside we went.
Five minutes later—round two.
The alarm blared again. Out we went. Again. Same routine. Wait, blink, mutter, return. Still no fire trucks, no hotel staff with answers. Just a building that apparently wanted to make sure we were awake.
It turned out to be someone vaping in their room! 😡
After our disrupted night, we packed up and hit the road. Today’s destination: Arlon, back to the same hotel where our trip had begun nearly two weeks ago. There was something comforting about returning to familiar ground, even if the journey there was a bit damp.

The forecast promised mostly dry weather with the occasional light shower. The first shower, however, was anything but light. It came down hard, soaking the gear and dampening spirits. Still, we pressed on, hoping the afternoon would improve.
As we crossed into France and made our way toward Luxembourg and Belgium, we stopped at a McDonald’s. Because of course we did. At this point, it was less a habit and more a tradition.
Later, on the outskirts of Metz, we pulled into another McDonald’s—this time for coffee. Just another 90 minutes to go.
We arrived in Arlon to dry roads and gusty winds. The weather had improved since the coffee stop, and the ride in was smooth. Back at the hotel, we settled in, unpacked, and began to unwind.

Simon headed to bed early—he was planning to leave first thing in the morning to catch an earlier train home. The rest of us—Mike, Alex, and Eamonn—stayed in the bar for a few final drinks. There was a sense of winding down, of the trip gently drawing to a close.

Alex tried to convince Mike to have another Disaronno, but Mike wasn’t having it. He remembered the measures at this hotel—generous to the point of reckless—and politely declined.
Just before turning in, Mike had a wicked idea. He’d found a sound clip on his phone that mimicked the exact fire alarm from the Strasbourg hotel. As he and Alex passed Simon’s door, he turned the volume up to full, pressed the speaker against the wood, and hit play.
It was deafening.
So loud, in fact, that they genuinely feared they’d woken the entire corridor. They switched it off immediately and bolted to their rooms, giggling uncontrollably and trying to stifle the laughter. It was juvenile. It was brilliant. And it was the perfect way to end the day.
The day began early, with Simon setting off from Arlon toward Calais in hopes of catching an earlier train than originally booked. A few hours later, he reported success—he was already at the tunnel and had secured a slot two hours ahead of schedule. That meant he’d be home by early afternoon, beating the rush and the rain.
Meanwhile, Alex, Mike, and Eamonn took a more scenic route. Their plan: follow country roads to Saint-Omer for the final night of the tour. The weather was mixed—occasional showers, but mostly dry. Spirits were good, and the pace was relaxed.

Lunch was at McDonald’s. Yes, the golden arches had become a recurring waypoint, a place to regroup, refuel, and laugh about the morning’s ride. With 3.5 hours still to go, it was a welcome break.
After lunch, the trio continued on the straighter, more tedious roads of northern France. Mike led the way, with Eamonn in the middle and Alex bringing up the rear. The rhythm was steady until, out of nowhere, Alex let out a loud scream: “No no no!”
Mike and Eamonn immediately responded—“What’s the matter? What’s happening?”—as adrenaline kicked in. A van, parked on the opposite side of the road, had suddenly pulled out and begun what looked like a U-turn across the main road. It was turning right in front of Alex, but hit the brakes just in time!. It was close. Very close. It could have been a very nasty incident. Everyone took a deep breath. Alex was asked if he wanted to stop, but he said he was OK So we carried on .
Later in the afternoon, light rain rolled in as they reached Arras. The group pulled into a Burger King for coffee—because, as it turns out, fast food outlets seem to be the only reliable coffee stops open in France these days. Not ideal, but dependable.
After leaving Burger King, Mike made a bold decision: no waterproofs. The sky looked manageable, and he fancied a dry run. It was, in hindsight, optimistic.
Within minutes, the heavens opened. A heavy shower drenched the road—and Mike. Soaked through, he rode on, dripping but undeterred. Fortunately, the next hour was dry, and by the time they stopped for petrol, he was almost dry again. That’s when he wisely suited up. The rest of the ride included a few light showers, and this time, he was glad he’d made the switch.
The group arrived in Saint-Omer in the early evening, pulling into the familiar Ibis hotel in the centre of town. It’s a favourite stop—close to restaurants, easy to navigate, and just 30 minutes from the Eurotunnel. Perfect for the final night.
Dinner was at Brasserie Audomaroise, a spot they’d visited before. The menu was broad, the atmosphere relaxed, and everyone found something they liked. But the highlight wasn’t the food—it was the drink.
On the menu was something called a “giraffe of beer”—a tall, shared dispenser that looked part novelty, part engineering feat. They ordered one, poured a few rounds, and raised their glasses to the road behind them.

Light showers were forecast for the morning, both in France and back home in Kent. Wet weather gear would be needed one last time. But for now, they were dry, fed, and together—sharing stories, laughter, and the final chapter of a journey that had already become legend.

The final day of the tour began with a short ride to the Eurotunnel terminal in Calais. Spirits were high, the weather was overcast but dry, and the mood was a mix of satisfaction and reluctant farewell. After more than 2,500 miles, the end was in sight.
Things took an unexpected turn when Mike reached the automated check-in screen. Instead of asking for his booking number, the machine jumped straight to questions about pets and fuel type. Odd, but not alarming. It issued a ticket, which he clipped to his screen, and off he went.
Moments later, at the UK Customs gate, he was flagged down. The ticket was wrong.
Apparently, the automatic number plate recognition system had picked up the car behind him and registered it as his. The machine had assumed he was a diesel hatchback and skipped the booking prompt entirely. Mike, unaware, had simply accepted the ticket it gave him.
Thanks to the intercom system, Mike was able to keep Alex and Eamonn updated while border officials sorted things out. Within ten minutes, he had a fresh ticket in hand. Fortunately, Alex and Eamonn hadn’t yet passed through French customs, so Mike rejoined the queue with them.
Technically, he was booked onto a later train, but when they reached the booth that assigns vehicles to queues, they played it cool—and maybe a little dumb. “We’re all together,” they said. The official waved them into the same lane, and despite the hiccup, they all boarded the same train.

Every time we return to the UK, the contrast is immediate. The roads are crowded, the lane discipline questionable, and the general flow feels more chaotic than continental. French drivers may struggle with roundabouts, but they’re generally more aware of motorcycles and give space. In the UK, it’s a bit more… Darwinian.
The weather was humid and overcast, but no waterproofs were needed—yet.
We knew it was coming, but that didn’t make it any less frustrating. The M20 was down to two lanes, and one of those had a broken-down van. First gear for five miles. The kind of crawl that makes you question your life choices.
Eventually, we reached Maidstone services for a coffee stop and a final regroup. This was where we’d part ways with Mike, who was heading north across country, while Alex and Eamonn had the joys of the M25 and M4 ahead.

As soon as Mike peeled off, the rain began. Not heavy, but persistent. Alex and Eamonn pulled off the motorway to suit up one last time. Waterproofs on, visors down, and back into the flow.
The traffic was heavy, but not as bad as the M20. A shortcut through Bracknell helped, and they stopped for a late lunch at The Bell pub—one final meal before the unpacking began.
Back at Alex’s, they sorted gear, shared a coffee, and reflected on the journey. Eamonn would head home shortly, but for now, they paused to take it all in.
Another superb Old Gits tour in the books. Just over 2,500 miles covered, countless stories collected, and a few new ones still being told. The roads were varied, the weather unpredictable, and the camaraderie constant.
Now comes the post-tour ritual: unpacking, drying gear, and working out the true cost of the trip. But that’s for tomorrow. Today, it’s about the ride, the memories, and the satisfaction of a journey well done.
And just like that, the 2025 Old Gits tour comes to a close.
Seventeen days, over 2,500 miles, six countries, countless mountain passes, and more fast-food coffee stops than any of us care to admit. We’ve ridden through sunshine, thunderstorms, and what felt suspiciously like the edge of a tornado. We’ve navigated booking blunders, border crossings, and the occasional top-box oil spill. We’ve lost phones in ditches, found beer in giraffes, and discovered that waterproofs are only ever appreciated in hindsight.
But more than anything, we’ve shared the road.
This trip wasn’t just about the scenery (though it was spectacular), or the riding (though it was sublime). It was about the moments in between—the banter at petrol stations, the late-night pranks, the shared glances when the weather turned, and the quiet satisfaction of arriving somewhere new together.
We’ve laughed until we couldn’t breathe, cursed the M20 in unison, and toasted the journey with Disaronno, beer towers, and the occasional reluctant salad. And through it all, the group held strong—each rider bringing their own quirks, strengths, and stories to the mix.
Now the panniers are unpacked, the gear is drying, and the bikes are back in their garages. But the memories? They’re still fresh. And they’ll be retold—over pints, in WhatsApp threads, and maybe even next year, when someone inevitably says, “Same time again?”
Until then, thanks for following along. Ride safe, laugh often, and never underestimate the power of a good intercom and a bad idea.
Here's a short tune reflecting some of the thrills and spills.
—Mike